I had been resident in Benin city for about ten months now by virtue of which I can unequivocally state that the Bini people are unarguably the most or one of the most cultural people or tribe in Nigeria, if not Africa.
My submission is epithetical upon the traditional and cultural effigies scattered around the city, the plethora of shrines in conspicuous and inconspicuous places (I had lost count ), the beautiful red and white stripped houses used to distinguish the houses of Enogie's, Palace Chiefs, Odionwere's, shrines from that of others, the godlike reverence for the Oba and other traditional institutions. The strict adherence to their cultural beliefs which some people will conceive as anachronistic or down right demonic, their mastery of pottery, brass-work, sculpting, their love for their land and its guiding principles (if you think Ibo's love their lands, take a voyage to Benin and experience snow in summer over land issues; the earth literally tilts out of alignment), their traditional tribunals on issues bothering on land, inheritance, witchcraft etc
I came in first hand contact with their tradition some months back.
Some months ago the ancient Kingdom and indeed the entire nation was thrown into mourning over the demise of the elite Bini Monarch HRH Oba Erediauwa ( Omo N'oba N'edo Uku Okpolokpolo).
The news was traditionally announced via the town crier (yes, they still exist) at the Oba market and every activity within the ring road axis came to an abrupt halt.
Within minutes Oba market had taken the semblance of a ghost town. The streets where empty, a great Iroko had fallen, and the ground was in tremor.
The next day almost all the Bini men had cut their hair, and I don't mean crew cute... "GORIMAKPA!" (bald head), all the Chiefs had replaced their red coral beads and bracelet with the white ones known as Omo N'orhue in accordance with the Bini culture. No Bini family was to bury their deceased nor give a child away in marriage while the funeral rites where on, in fact on one of those days no Bini household was to prepare their meals with firewood else... The average Bini man obeyed all of these and more without kicking up a fuss.
All of these was mystifying and somewhat quaint to me. I am from the acephalous and egalitarian Ibo extract. We do not pay such obeisance to our Monarchs. We respect our Monarchs but I doubt if we go through all of these to bewail their demise (politely correct me if I am wrong).
After the conclusion of the funeral rites, his heir apparent Prince (Amb) Eheneden Erediauwa (former Nigerian Ambassador to Albania) was coronated as the Edaiken N'Uselu which translates to the Crown Prince of Bini kingdom.
On the 6th of October, 2016, the Court of Appeal (Benin Judicial Division) struck out the motion before it. The Applicants where praying the Honorable Court for an order to restrain the Chiefs from coronating the Edaiken as the Oba of Benin. After this legal victory it was announced that the coronation will be set in motion from the 8th of October 2016.
Once again I was besotted with the rich Bini culture and tradition. On the appointed day the Edaiken N'Uselu apace the Usselu Chiefs, Chief Priest and Witch Doctors, Lay-men, Women, Children, Societies etc departed the Edaiken's palace for Eko_Ohae; which will last for a period of 7-10 days.
From this day the white beads i.e Omo N'orhue will be discarded and the red coral beads re-adopted. An embargo was also placed on funeral rites within the kingdom pending the determination of coronation rites. On his way to Eko Ohae, he stopped to climb an ancient palm tree called Odin Amamuesan Aimiuwa.
Upon getting to Iya -Akpan, the Usselu Chiefs handed the Edaiken over to the Oredo Chiefs and departed. The Oredo Chiefs then accompanied the Edaiken to Eko Ohae. All of these was not a one day event but in the seam of 7 days or more.
The beauty of it all was that everyday the people came out en masse to accompany their Oba on foot to any destination. The hands of the Edaiken never hung loosely throughout the journey but was held on both sides by warriors. It reminded me of a story in the bible; when God instructed that the hands of Moses be held high on both sides if they wanted victory.
The Edaiken spent three days for a private ceremony at Eko Ohae before proceeding to Usama palace for coronation rituals. Later he left for Use to pick a name in line with the Bini custom. To pick a name he has to defeat the Edigin N'use in the traditional akhue game, as it has been for generations past. The name the Edaiken picks will be announced on his coronation day. He proceeds back to Usama palace from whence he would enter Benin via Isekhere to Urho Kpota for his coronation on the 20th day of October, 2016.
The city is agog with festivities, tourists are sprouting up from far and wide to witness this grandiose occasion. Every company and outfit wants to identify with the event, banners and posters and billboards of the coronation can be seen everywhere in the city. Hotels ,lodges, guest houses are booked to the teeth, it's like Christmas in October.
The state government has given Ring Road and Uro Kpota hall a face lift. They spared no cost. I never knew that ring road could be this "Las-vegaish" at night; lights, decorations and what not. If they could hang chandeliers on the street they would have... it was a sight to behold.
The last time Bini kingdom crowned an Oba was in the year 1979, it had been ages. For most people this would be a once in a life time experience and they are savouring every bit of the event. I want to applaud the good people of the Bini kingdom for holding on firmly to their culture when most people have long discarded theirs.
It is the 20th day of October, 2016; the day the Bini Kingdom has been expecting after the demise of their former Monarch; Oba Erediauwa 1. It's the day the Crown Prince Eheneden Erediauwa (Edaiken N'Uselu) ascends the 836 years old throne of his ancestors as the 39th Oba of the Bini Kingdom and the 70th ruler in the Ogiso dynasty.
The Ogiso's (King of the sky) were the then rulers of Igodomigodo now known as the Bini kingdom. They successfully ruled Igodomigodo up until the 12th century when their young Prince Ekalarderhan left the Royal Court over a rift with his young uncle. The young Prince later went to another land where he took the name Izoduwa or Oduduwa and became the first Ooni of Ife. The first official Oba of Benin was Oba Eweka 1.
Considering the aeonic and the once in a blue moon nature of the event, the government of Edo State declared the day as a public holiday. Regular activities within the Ring Road was adjourned to a later date to enable the Edaiken and his entourage access Uro Kpota hall via Isekhere street. The Commissioner of Police of Edo State; Mr. Haliru Abubakar Gwandu had stated earlier that he had deployed 5,000 police officers to help maintain the peace during the coronation alongside other security agents and palace guards. The President, Senate president and Speaker of the House of Representatives will also be attending. The British High Commissioner; Mr Paul Arkwright also brings congratulatory messages from the Queen of England. This was the most interesting aspect for me. Who would have believed that a descendant of Oba Ovoramwem Nogbaisi and Queen Victoria will be exchanging pleasantries after the invasion 1897.
The Edaiken is yet to arrive Uro Kpota hall....
The Kingdom awaits .....
I personally have been strolling around the Ring Road axis all morning capturing events,taking in the local culture...
I had tried to gain entry into Ring Road to catch the Oba's procession but the gridlock I encountered was overwhelming. All the access route to the road was on lock down by law enforcement agents and touts. The only people who where allowed to pass through were Chiefs and dignitaries who properly identified themselves. Some other persons tried to force their way through but that was a silly move. They where rough handled by the over zealous touts, I am sure nobody asked for their services; "oversabi people..."
I decided to fall back, I mean I'll love to witness this historic event but I'll also want to retain my dignity. Besides it was just past 8. I doubt if the Edaiken had left the Usama palace. I strolled down to my office with a host of stranded people who couldn't access their place of work or find a vehicle to take them back home. You'll be surprised that I actually work on a public holiday, but dear friends the only public holiday my Principal in Chambers recognized was SUNDAY. On my way to the office, I noticed that a big projector was hung right in the middle of Mission Road, the coronation was going to be shown LIVE. It will be madness to allow everyone access to Uro Kpota hall so I thought it was an excellent idea.
While in the office I was terribly bored,I had nothing to do and didn't feel like watching television or reading. My mind was racing for no just cause, I knew there was something else I ought to be doing.
Since I was already jobless I decided to take another stroll to Ring Road to see any cultural activities. Half way through the journey a bright idea hit me, I almost screamed EUREKA! like Archimedes; there is an access road from Mission road to Ibiwe and Isekhere street. I was sure it will be free from any impasse and I was right!
The Edaiken was to proceed from Usama palace to Isekhere street where he would cross the bridge then proceed to Ibiwe street before entering Uro Kpota hall. Now this bridge is a man-made bridge, I guess there used to be a river and a bridge in that path centuries ago but for some natural or supernatural occurrence the river and the actual bridge is no more and every prospective Oba had to cross it hence the construction.
The Edaiken's entourage started gliding by, every woman with a scarf was instructed to take it off, every man with a cap got the same instruction, people watching from their balconies where ordered down and they gladly obeyed. According to the Bini custom, it is believed that a palm tree grows in the middle of the Oba's head and no one was allowed to see it.
There where different categories of people in the procession. They all turned up unashamed in their full regalia. It was so rich, colourful, cultural, educating and entertaining. They didn't pass by in any particular order but I'll love to take them one after the order.
First, there was the Palace guards and warriors. They were adorned with black from head to toe, some of them added more flair to their appearance by painting one half of their faces with black charcoal, they also had black ropes adorned with cowries tied around their heads. They had cutlasses, daggers and the archers among them had bows and arrows. The intriguing part was that some of these warriors were elderly men in their 60's and 70's. They might not appear as formidable as those you see in foreign epic movies but back in the days these guys fought and won some serious battles. They defeated the British in their first invasion in 1897. Their victory was so huge that it was only 2 British officers that survived the onslaught.
Then the guys with brown skirt, white beads, white chalk all over their bodies and very massive tummies...like really massive. It jiggled as they passed by. No one seemed to know their exact post or function, so let's just call them the belly guys.
Another group of men adorned with red traditional top and a flowing red skirt or wrapper. The ladies amongst them had white wrappers with red tied around the breast region.
Then the Chiefs, most of them turned up in their traditional attire i.e the white wrapper tied around the waist with a bare chest and the red coral beads and bracelet. Some covered up their chest, others choose not to wear white. The Palace Chiefs also topped it up by adorning their distinct haircut. I have always been fascinated by that haircut. The Binis have been slaying since time immemorial! Some of them had iron rods with different insignia's while some carried long sticks, some others just preferred to dance, some walked by soberly. Series of Royal families and youth groups also joined in the procession. Then some random persons in white wrappers as well joined in.
The most scary part of the procession for me was when the Bishop of Holy Aruosa (The Benin Traditional Church) and his entourage passed. I had goose bumps. Besides the Bishop who was adorned in the usual Bishop robe the others looked like Sango. I would stop here on them, I can't begin to say everything I saw. Then there were police men on horses dressed as colonial officers.
Then the Oba's entourage...
About a hundred or more men in white wrappers carrying a board-like object with three mirrors and three symbols of men on each. Others where carrying mats and luggage, ancient drums and some carried things I can't put a name to. When it was getting to the Oba's turn to pass by, everywhere went slightly dark and a cool breeze came from his direction (even nature realizeda that something was up and I am not exaggerating). Then the Oba and two Chiefs, one on each side where in the middle. That was the highest point for me. I mean I saw the Oba of Benin with my bare eyes, I was so excited I didn't know when I started jumping. He had on the coral crown, layers of coral beads and bracelet, white wrapper, he was resplendent! The crowd started screaming "Iyare" "Oba ghato kpere"... he just smiled in all his glory and glamour. For a second there I wished I was from Benin. The devotion was just unbelievable. I mean this is the 21st century and People are still paying such homage to a Monarch, wow! If the Oba had pointed at any girl in the crowd, she automatically becomes his wife. I was kind of praying he did though ,wanted to know how practicable it was.
So what's the fuss with seeing the Oba of Benin?
Well unlike other Monarchs you get to see at top functions and event, the Oba of Benin does not leave Benin City, in fact he almost never leaves the Palace. This might be the first and last time his people might actually get to see him. So it's a huge deal.
The Oba and his entourage proceeded to the Uro Kpota hall where the final coronation rites will be performed and the staff of office handed over to him by the state government.
The hall was already packed with dignitaries from all walks of life. The federal government was represented by the Vice President; Professor Yemi Osibanjo. The Sultan of Sokoto was present, the Emir of Kano, the Obi of Onitsha, the Ooni of Ife and other Royal Fathers. A lot of Governors and Deputy Governors were also in attendance. The richest man in Africa was also present, Ambassadors from far and wide, Representatives of Companies and Industries etc. If the Queen could have attend she would have.
The Oba arrived the venue and was escorted by his Chiefs to the throne. Chief Oliha; the Kingmaker performed the final ritual and he was officially crowned as Oba of Benin. He took the name Oba Ewuare 2.
The staff of office was handed over to him by the State Governor. The Governor expressed his joy, as he was the first democratically elected Governor to hand over the staff of office to an Oba. He considered it a rare privilege and showered praises on the new Oba. Every Chief came forward to pay homage and swear allegiance to the new Oba. The event ended in dancing, wining and dinning.
I am glad I served in Benin, I am glad I got to witness this epoch event.
This Article was written by Uzoma Lauretta Okonkwo. She is a 25 years old Lawyer who loves to write in her spare time. Uzoma enjoys reading, writing, surfing the web and traveling. She has a keen interest in Art, Literature, Culture and Youth empowerment. She loves history and is a proven addict of epic movies.
You can connect with Uzoma on her Facebook page for more of her interesting stories via her handle on: Uzzie Lau Okonkwo.
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